Toraya, Traditional Pastries in the Heart of Paris

19.02.2020

WordsClémence Leleu

©Clémence Leleu

A stone’s throw from the chic rue Saint-Honoré, you’ll find Toraya, the Japanese institution specialised in traditional wagashi pastries. Founded in the 16th century in Kyoto, the company provides sweet treats to the Imperial family and has its only overseas address in Paris, which opened just 40 years ago. Ever since these Japanese bakers have been introducing Parisians to the unique taste of kidney bean paste. These delicacies come in a number of colours, are hand shaped and crucially, are totally devoid of the butter and eggs that are so dear to French pastry chefs. The key ingredient is this sweet red kidney bean paste azuki. What’s more, these wagashi aren’t normally consumed at dessert, but are rather taken with tea and punctuate important moments of the year, at the change of season, religious holidays, or to gift to loved ones.

With its solid oak tables, painted azuki red and covered in resin, reminiscent of the natural patina of agar agar and its cosy lighting, Toraya is open to the public for lunch or for snack breaks throughout the day. According to the manager of the tea room, the clientele is largely French and composed of a large number of regulars. During Fashion Week, the number of Japanese, Chinese, British and American customers frequent the establishment.

©Clémence Leleu

One of the brand’s bestsellers is the namagashi, seasonal pastries with a selection that rotates every 15 days. Early in the year, diners can try the Camélia, a winter flower that has been popular in Japan since the Edo period. Its pastry incarnation takes the form and yellow and pink colours of this delicate flower, inside there is a white bean paste which melts in the mouth and will win over anyone with any doubts about these edible works of art.

Another popular product is the Herbes Enneigées, a yam-based brioche caked filled with azuki paste and decorated with fresh herbs under a light blanket of snow. Both a treat for the eyes and the tastebuds. The Yokan aux Pommes, a jelly pastry in a translucent, rectangular form, stuffed with caramelised apples and flavoured with Calvados. According to Satoko Fujimitsu Mayeur, Yokan is a fusion pastry blending Japanese and French cuisine based on pear, red fruits and fig flavours. It is uniquely Parisian speciality.

These pastries created with both red and white bean paste are imported directly from Japan with seasonal, natural products. They are handmade using sculpted wooden moulds. Refined and delicious, Toraya is the perfect spot for a taste of Japan in the heart of Paris.

©Clémence Leleu

©Clémence Leleu

©Clémence Leleu

©Clémence Leleu